Tuesday, March 20, 2012

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For the woodworker, nothing is easier than pocket hole joinery using the Kreg Jig K3 System. Since the debut of this system in 1990, the Kreg jig has been the option for affordable and easy to use pocket hole joinery.

What is pocket hole joinery? The simplest process, all it involves is drilling a clearance hole that is angled and a counterbore in wood. Using another piece of wood, the first one is attached to the second one with a screw. The lowest (the pocket hole) of the counterbore is back far sufficient from the edge to which it is being joined to allow room for the screw head. The clearance hole sets the screw at an angle so it can hold the wood without popping through.

Counterbore Drill Bits

When it comes to the best pocket holes you will do no better than the Kreg K3 System. The jig is a versatile tool which includes these features:

As Seen on Tv Kreg Jig communicate

* You no longer have to reach nearby to clamp, which is awkward. The clamp is on the front side which is much easier to reach.

* When you need the pocket holes in a exact place, the drill bit guide has three fixed holes for guiding and placing them for narrow, wide and widest.

* The dust variety shroud is a new feature that eliminates the wood chips falling all over the workbench and will make the drill bit last longer.

With added height adjustment, the K3 allows screws to enter material from ½ inch to 1 ½ inches thick. The innovative material keep stop will place the pocket holes in alignment on all the pieces you are working on so you have the best pocket hole drilling available.

The system includes a transported base, drill guide block, material keep stop, 3/8 inch step drill bit, Allen wrench, dust variety shroud, superior face clamp, depth collar, screws, a carrying case and instructions.

The most easy way of joining materials perfectly and with the accuracy needed so that the parts of the joint line up nothing else but are concluded by the Kreg Jig K3 System. Instead of a set-up that you do not understand or having to measure, and dry fit joint the whole thing can be taken care of in just a few minutes. This is as easy as using a drill.

The Kreg Jig K3 system has a transported case for taking along wherever you need to work or for storing when it is not in use. With more features than any other hole tool sold today, the system is favorite by those working in cabinet making, photo frames, decks, stairs, windows and door jambs and attaching leg rails to perfection. The sky is the limit when it comes to the uses for this jig.

When it comes to strength, independent testing that has been done shows a superior dissimilarity between using this jig and the old way of using a mortise and tenon joint. The pocket screw joint when subjected to a shear load failed at 707 pounds and the mortise and tenon joint failed at 453 pounds. For a 35% stronger pocket screw joint, the Kreg Jig K3 system clearly came out the winner.

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How to setup Cabinet Light Rail Molding

So you want to know how to setup your own kitchen under cabinet light rail molding. Do not attempt the facility unless you possess some basic carpentry skills. You will also need a few power and hand tools. Do not attempt this phase of your kitchen cabinet facility without having sufficient time. No hand miter box cutting allowed! You must achieve the top quality setup possible.

Tools and Materials Needed:

Counterbore Drill Bits

  • Chop Saw
  • Electric Drill
  • Three Clamps (I prefer Jorgensen Clamps)
  • Correct length Screws
  • Countersink Bit
  • 1/16" Pilot Hole Drill Bit
  • 3/16" Drill Bit
  • Hand Screw-driver
  • Yellow Carpenters Glue
  • Matching Wood Putty Stick

How to setup Cabinet Light Rail Molding

One of the most popular questions habitancy ask is; "should the molding be installed flush or recessed with the face of the cupboard?" I always recess the light rail no less than one eight (1/8") of an inch. This just looks great than trying to get it perfectly flush with the face-frame. Keep in mind that the light rail should be flush with the end of the cabinet next to where a space-saver microwave gets installed.

Roughly part the length of each piece of molding you will need and add four inches to each piece. Hopefully you opinion to order plentifulness of extra in case you make a mistake. Cut all of the pieces you need over size first.

Now cut a few "small" convention miter pieces at forty five degrees. These should be used to double check that your corners on the cupboards are at true ninety degree angles.

Now, when you start cutting the actual molding pieces of light rail, only cut the angles on one piece at a time. The key to installing the molding correctly is in working out the correct details one piece at a time and one miter joint at a time.

Prior to development your cuts, drill holes from the inside of the cupboard downward using the three sixteenths inch (3/16") drill bit. Then, counter sink the holes from inside the cupboards. These are the holes that will fetch the molding to the cabinetry.

The concluded end pieces of molding will be attached to the cabinets with ¾" x 1" X 8-1/2" blocks. The blocks get fastened to the short return pieces of molding and then screwed to the cupboard from underneath. The calculate for doing it this way is because you cannot fasten them from the inside of the cabinet.

Installing Kitchen Cabinet Light Rail:

  1. Decide which piece is best to setup first (consider working largest to smallest)
  2. Make your cuts
  3. Apply yellow glue sparingly to the miter joints
  4. Clamp the piece in place using the Jorgensen clamps
  5. Drill the light rail through the counter sunk holes using the 1/16" drill bit
  6. Secure the molding in place with screws
  7. Wipe off the entrance glue immediately with a damp cloth
  8. Repeat these steps on each light rail piece

The three sixteenths inch hole you drilled should be bigger than the screws you are installing the molding with. If you need to adjust the molding a little, loosen the screws with a hand screw-driver. Align the light rail accordingly and then fetch it tightly into exquisite position.

If you begin to get frustrated, take a break. This is tedious work. The joints on the kitchen cabinet light rail should be as tight as possible.

The final step of the facility process is filling the miter joints with the matching wood putty. Wipe off any excess putty with a dry rag.

How to setup Cabinet Light Rail Molding